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Depending on whether you prefer to work in inches or centimetres, add either 2” or 5cms to your measurements PLUS 5/8” or 1.5cms on EVERY seam edge as a “seam allowance” or it won’t fit!
- Nape to Length - the “nape” is the knobbly bit at the top of your spine, just below your hairline. Length is determined by whether you are male or female and which time period you represent. Men, think kneelength and women, ankle length. I wouldn’t recommend dragging on the floor - rain and mud can ruin your beautiful new kit!
- Chest/Bust circumference - add the 2” or 5cms, THEN divide by two before adding the seam allowance e.g.: chest 38” plus 2” = 40” divide by 2 = 20” + 5/8” on both edges = 21 1/2” or Bust 95cms + 5cms = 100 divide by 2 = 50 + 1.5cms on both edges = 53cms
- Waist - only use this if it is larger than your chest measurement!
- Shoulder to shoulder - across the back of the neck.
- Bicep circumference - pump those muscles and add 2” or 5cms to give you movement.
- Shoulder to top of thumb joint - the one nearest to your wrist
- Circumference of hand - held as if pushing it through a sleeve, then add 1” or 2.5cms.
- Width of base of neck - do not add extra width or seam allowance - sewing adds a little space.
- Slit - measure from the notch at the top of your sternum to a decent length above your boobs/moobs.
- Keyhole neckline to just allow head to just pass through - do not add extra width or seam allowance. Form a circle the diameter (width) of your neck on the shoulder fold line of the tunic and then add the slit. This part of the garment needs to be hemmed by hand.