How to make a pair of basic trousers

Measurement and Cutting Out

A downloadable version of this document is available here.

1. Find your most comfy pair of jeans - preferably after you’ve worn them for a day or two.
2. Draw round them - refer to the trouser CUTTING diagram on the next page.
3. You also need to cut the diamond shaped gusset. This reinforces the crotch seams - essential on the battlefield!
4. Add an extra 5/8” or 1.5cms to each seam edge, or a little more for comfort.
5. Both men's and women's jeans curve slightly towards the waist - do NOT follow this line! Instead draw the line straight up from the hip to the waistline and then add another 3” or 7cms at the top of the waistline to form a waistband of sorts.
6. You will need a length of 1” or 2.5cms wide elastic comfortable enough to fit around your waist or a drawstring long enough to tie around your waist and secure in a knot and bow.

The pieces above are laid flat to show how they will appear after you have drawn and cut around your comfy trousers.

Sewing

The leg seams are joined first to make two separate legs, then the back seams and fronts seams matched and joined to form the whole trousers.

The "waistband" is folded and stitched to create a tunnel for the elastic or drawstring. Leave a small gap in the front seam to allow you to thread through.

The gusset can be stitched into place last of all, either outside or inside the garment depending on your comfort, with the points each lined up with one of the four seams.

Credits: with thanks to Alix Cooper.