Undertunic

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Undertunics should be made of linen (or a substitute of very similar appearance) or (for very high status only) silk.

Undertunics' sleeves should come at least to the wrist and be tight fitting at the wrist but looser on the upper arm. By the tenth century in England the sleeves of the undertunic should be long enough to reach the knees; as a minimum they should cover the fingertips; the sleeves should be pulled back to the wrist and may be held in place with arm rings (for higher status). In the later tenth century and eleventh century, this fashion had also spread to Scandinavia.

If arm guards are to be worn under the tunic, the sleeves must be loose enough to allow it. Undertunics should reach to around the knee when belted, and have a round or square neckline with a small front split as an option.

Undertunics may be decorated with embroidery to European designs with vines, leaves or animals and birds (both real and imaginary).

From the later eleventh century, tunics for higher status men may be front and rear split. They should reach to the bottom edge of the knee, and have a round or square neckline with a small front split as an option. Such undertunics may be decorated with embroidery to European designs with vines, leaves or animals and birds (both real and imaginary).

How to make a tunic

Neck fastenings

Tunics must have an appropriate, authentic fastening at the neck. For undertunics, ties or a loop and bead may be simplest, though a small disc brooch is an option for Anglo-Saxons.

Given that single beads are frequent finds in male graves, it is possible that they fulfilled a role other than as a necklace. One of the few surviving Viking period tunics uses a bead as a neck closure and it is possible that the finds of individual or “odd” beads were used in a similar manner.