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By far the most popular type of kyrtle had a gusseted skirt. They were warmer than the side split tunic, but required only a little more work to manufacture.
Manufacture Of The Gusseted Kyrtle
- Cut a rectangle of cloth (A) to form a basic tabard; shoulder width and knee length, front and rear, not forgetting to allow an extra 1/2" or 1cm for the seams. Fold the strip in half and mark out the neck line.
- Next, cut out the sleeves (B & C), which need to be as long as your arm, cuff to shoulder, still not forgetting to allow an extra 1/2" or 1cm for the seams. The sleeve must be wide enough to put your arm in easily, a good tip is to make the sleeve width before folding and sewing the same as the shoulders of the tunic.
- You've simultaneously cut out the skirt gussets (D & E & F & G).
- If you're using a machine and wish to do so now's the time to zig-zag/overlock all the edges.
- Cut out the neck aperture and entirely finish the head hole. This is far easier to do now than later.
- Fold each sleeve along its top edge, and sew into a tube. Check the fit and adjust as needed. Adding a 4"/10cm square at the armpit can help to give plenty of movement.
- Fold the body of the garment at the neck/half way point, and sew in one sleeve. Then continue down that side, and sew in the gore below. Repeat on the other side.
- Slit up the front/rear of the garment, and sew in the front and rear gores.
- If working by hand, or want to better conceal your machining so far, you're ready to go over and thoroughly oversew what you've done so far, using an appropriate seam treatment.
- If you've been machining everything that can't be seen, and don't want to spend as much time going over by hand, it's a good idea to at least press open all the seams.
- Finally, hand finish all edges and hems so that no machine stitching will be visible externally.