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Overtunics were usually made from woollen material.

Overtunics had long sleeves, tight fitting at the wrist but looser on the upper arm. If arm guards are to be worn under the tunic, the sleeves must be loose enough to allow this. It should be an inch or so shorter in length at the sleeves and hemline to show off the under tunic. It may have a round or square neckline with a small front split as an option, slightly wider than the undertunic.

  • English overtunics should be skirted with gussets. English tunics should be made from the same material throughout, i.e. any side gores should use the same fabric. English tunics should be made long enough to reach to below the knees even when belted. The sleeves should be quite tight at the cuffs but also be long enough to reach to at least the knees when pulled out. Extra width may also be allowed to accommodate armguards under the sleeves.
  • Viking overtunics in the eighth and ninth centuries may have small side-splits. Viking tunics should be slightly shorter than English equivalents from the same period.
  • From the later eleventh century, tunics for higher status men may be front and rear split. The splits should be from about 2 inches below the groin to the hem. The tunic should reach to the bottom edge of the knee, and have a round or square neckline with a small front split as an option.

The cuffs, neck and hems may be edged in a contrasting colour which may be the base for embroidery. Overtunics for higher status must be decorated with embroidery around the wrists, cuffs, neck and hem; this embroidery may be on an edging in a contrasting colour.

Tunics must have an appropriate, authentic fastening at the neck.

How to make a tunic