Western Viking Female guide

kit guide

Focus	Assessment	Requirements for: 9th and 10th century Viking lower status (level 2)	Requirements for: 9th and 10th century Viking higher status (level 3-4)
context
Context	What cultural group / type of kit is being assessed?	Viking
Context	What location does the character originate from	Iceland (10th C only) Norway (covers Iceland 9th C) Denmark
Context	What gender is the candidate portraying?	female
Context	What date is the kit portraying?	C.800-900 (9th C variant) C. 900-1020 (10th C variant)	C.800-900 (9th C variant) C. 900-1020 (10th C variant) Very high status variants: C. 900-1020 (10th C variant) Please ask for advice!
Context	What social status is being portrayed? The status of unmarried women reflects the status of their father, while married women and widows reflect the status of their husband.	Lower status covers the majority of the population – farm workers, tenants, artisans etc. Freedmen (leysingir) remained dependent on their lord, often for a number of generations, receiving board, lodging and clothing in return for labour. Free men (bondir, karls) varied widely in wealth and status. Some had their own estates and were responsible for their own households, but were unable to sell or bequeath their land, i.e. effectively tenants of their lord. There is a separate page for very low status	Higher status (level 3) these are local Community leaders (or members of a leading local family). For raiding Vikings it is most likely the younger sons with no heritage prospects. Level 3 also covers any retinue of the local leader, Master craftsmen and regional traders. For very high status (level 4) see notes at the end. This covers men of substance, who owned landed estates or long distance business and trading ventures. The spectrum went from ..... through to the most powerful Jarls. It also includes the warrior-retainers who followed these great lords as his companions and bodyguards. Since they ate at their lord’s table, accompanied him to court meetings and lived at his side, they would be dressed and equipped to the best of his ability, to reflect his importance and wealth.
Context	What is the occupation of the character being portrayed? Is the character typical or representative of those found in the early medieval world?
Footwear
Footwear	Candidate has shoes of suitable design.	Turnshoes, either with toggles (made from leather) or laces Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. Bare feet are an option for very low status.	Turnshoes, either with toggles or laces. Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design.
Footwear	If candidate has hobnails or other grips in their shoes, they are aware that they are an inauthentic safety feature
Clothing
Clothing	Candidate has leg-wear of suitable design	Optional, to be worn under dresses for warmth: Tight-fitting trousers, Winingas, Knee length fabric socks.
Clothing	Candidate has underdress and overdress of suitable design. for basic kit check, one dress is sufficient.	Long underdress, reaching the ankles and to the wrists. This is usually made of linen or fine wool. Long overdress, reaching ankles and wrists, usually made of wool, but can be linen. Both dresses should be closed at the neck either with ties, or a loop and bead.	Long underdress, reaching the ankles and to the wrists. This is usually made of linen or fine wool Underdress should be closed at the neck either with ties, or a loop and bead. Very high status: Underdress should be fine linen, can be pleated. Can have trim on the neck and wrists, trim can be fine silk strips. Overdress 9th Century variant: Hangeroc – Usually made of wool. This is fasted by loops (sewing one continuous strap from front to back is not acceptable) and must be held closed with tortoise (oval) brooches (usually bronze). A separate “apron” may be attached to it. Very high status 9th Century variant: Tortoise (oval) brooches can be silver coated, (or silver substitute), or gilded, dress should be decorated. Overdress 10th Century variant (Christian): No hangeroc!. Replace with long overdress, either of wool, or linen. Neckline can now be closed with a small disc brooch. Very high status 10th Century variant: Ask for advice!
clothing	Candidate have belt of suitable design	Belts should be plain cloth or tablet braid but optional.	Belts should be plain cloth or tablet braid but optional.
Clothing	Candidate has headgear of suitable design.	9th Century variant: A simple headdress or Linen York style cap is optional. 10th Century variant: After 950AD headdress is mandatory.	9th Century variant: A simple headdress or Linen York style cap is optional. 10th Century variant: After 950AD headdress is mandatory. Very high status: Head dress should be of fine wool or linen, possibly decorated with fine tablet braid, silk may be used of the rest of the kit mandates it.
Clothing	Candidate has a cloak of suitable design. This is optional for basic kit, though encouraged.	A rectangular cloak, preferably a single layer, or double layer in a single fabric, though it may be lined in a different-coloured fabric. (Remember fabric is wealth so depends on status) Secured with a simple brooch or cloak pin.	A rectangular cloak, which may be lined in a different-coloured fabric, secured with a decorative penannular, equal armed, trefoil or disc-brooch. Very high status: Cloak should be lined and decorated. Can be semi-circular in shape (royalty only). for very high status a triangular feast cloak or shawl is an option based on figurines.
Clothing	Fabric, colour and general state of clothing is suitable to the status of the kit.	Fabrics should ideally be un-dyed natural colours (browns and greys for wool), other colours should be light, muted, ideally faded or washed out. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life.	Fabrics may be in relatively rich colours – though anything which could be described as “day-glo” is unacceptable. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Very high status would most likely hand down worn clothes to people below them.
Clothing	Clothing has decoration consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Decoration should be limited and is optional; tablet braid would probably have been removed and re-used when a garment was passed down. Decoration should be modest and simple, such as decorative hem stitches. This is not embroidery, but should still be fine stitches as there is no evidence for very large stitches made with coarse wool thread. We discourage the use of coarse wool braids as this is not evidenced by the finds. Braids should be tightly packed and suitably thin wool or linen being used (nothing more than 4mm wool being used,) It should almost be like fabric in how its woven.	Fine-quality tablet braid and brocade braid is encouraged. Very high status: ask for advice.
Clothing	Candidate is able to explain to the public how each item of their kit would have been made and worn. The candidate can explain the evidence behind any unusual or typical items. Candidates seeking an advanced pass will be expected to have a greater degree of knowledge than those seeking a basic pass.	While reviewing the candidate’s costume, the assessor will ask questions or discuss items with the candidate, to establish their level of knowledge and confidence. For a basic pass, the assessor may draw on their wider knowledge of the candidate's understanding and confidence.
Accessories
Misc	Candidate has jewellery in a material consistent with the status of the kit, and of design and decoration appropriate for the cultural group, location and date.	Small disc brooches and cloak pins are encouraged. Optionally a simple Thor's hammer or pendant. For Christians, a cross or crucifix of simple design in wood, bone or metal. Before 950AD very few would be Christian.	Highly decorated jewellery, semi-precious stones and glass beads on strands either worn as a necklace or between the brooches. Decorated disc brooches, penannular brooches and cloak pins are encouraged. For pagans optionally a Thor's hammer or pendant. For Christians a decorative metal cross or crucifix is encouraged. Decorated bronze, silver or gold arm rings and finger rings are encouraged. Bronze is not an option for very high status
Misc	Candidate has a satchel or bag of suitable design.	Encouraged, very useful. Preferred to oversized belt pouch.
Misc	Items on the candidate's Belt, such as pouches or other accoutrements, are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Personal accessories can include: a toiletries set, keys, sewing kit; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder). These can be kept in a drawstring pouch, or for larger items in a satchel. Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch, or preferably a satchel.	Personal accessories can include: a toiletries set, keys, sewing kit; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder). Accessories can hang from the belt. If a belt is not worn Items should be carried in a satchel. Items hanging off brooches is a Swedish style. Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch, or preferably a satchel.
Misc	Candidate has eating utensils of suitable design. Eating utensils are encouraged but not required for a basic kit check – new members frequently rely on group kit as they acquire their own	A small eating knife up to about 4”-5” long, suspended vertically in a leather sheath. The handle should be wood, bone or worked antler (not rustic/natural antler). A wooden bowl or plate, a wooden or pottery cup, and a wooden spoon, are strongly recommended.
Misc	Candidate has items appropriate to the occupation and livelihood of the character they wish to portray; items are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and kit. This is optional for basic kit.	Agricultural workers and craftswomen may have relevant tools. Cooking is a craft.	Higher-status characters are likely to do spinning, tablet weaving, embroidering, or looking after guests. Very high status: Only appropriate crafts are looking after guests, supervising many servants etc. They would not be cooking.

Examples and Variations

Lower Status

Most lower status clothing was more natural, browns, greys, creams etc from undyed wool and linen. Anything that is coloured could either have come from the end of the dye bath, be old clothing that has been sun bleached. Even if you are lower status your kit should be in good repair. You don’t know where or when your next piece of clothing will be available!

This lady is wearing a long under and over dress. The natural/earthy colours show she is of lower status. The belt she is wearing is of tablet weave. From this she hangs her snips, presumably these are needed most throughout the course of the day. She is also wearing nalbinded socks and turn-shoes. In her shoulder bag she carries the rest of her belongings that she might need or owns.

Higher status

This Viking lady wears a brown/grey herringbone under dress fastened with a simple bead. Her hangeroc is a dark blue wool. This has been decorated with a simple tablet braid line of decoration at the top. All hems are neatly finished. The green stitching on the outside is just added decoration. She wears a tablet braid belt from which is hanging a simple knife and a small bag of sprang construction. As the weather is also cold, she is also wearing nalbinded mittens. She has a head-covering of a wimple held on by another length of tablet braid, on top of this is a headscarf.

This Viking lady dates from after 950 and is at the lower end of higher status. As can be seen, she is wearing a slightly fitted woollen overdress. On her head she is wearing a naalbinded hat and a white wimple with fringes. She has a tablet braid belt, a pouch, knife and some snips.

Very high status

The higher-status kit guidelines are a good starting point for the extremely wealthy and powerful – the mighty jarls and Scandinavia’s increasingly powerful kings. All kit should be made to the highest standard and be well decorated. This may feature gold and silver thread, gold or silver wire inlaid into metalwork, gold and silver jewellery. Any tablet braid should be high quality and can utilise silver/gold threads, silk etc. Thread used for braid should be very fine – no “chunky” wools. The costliest materials and colours may be used, including very deep, rich shades of crimson, purple and bleached white. Silk fabric is an option – though it should be smooth silk (midweight) or fine gossamer silk (but not ‘raw’/‘slubbed’ silk or shimmering two-colour ‘shot’ silk/dupion). All kit must be in good condition – anything damaged or dirty would be passed to a minion to clean/repair, or else given away.

This 9th Century Viking lady is wearing a green underdress with a yellow hangeroc (no separate apron). At her shoulders are two tortoise brooches. These have also been used to pin the cloak in place. The lady is showing off most of her wealth through the necklaces of beads that she wears. The beads in this picture are carnelian and quartz with silver pendants. They will have most likely been imported from the Far East, possibly along with the silk that decorates the top of the hangeroc, just underneath the tablet braid. The close-up of the belt shows how vibrant the colours are. From the belt is hanging a utility knife. Hems are neat and well finished. No head covering, as this is not essential. In the first photo she is wearing an orange shawl, and in the second, a purple lined cloak with fur edging.
By the 10th century the national elite especially in Denmark have moved towards the fashion of the Empires to the South. The hangeroc is going out of use (now only used by local leading families), instead an overdress becomes the new norm. Here we see a 10th Century Viking lady with a deep red overdress and a nice blue cloak with blue lining. A fine silver thread is decorating the edge of the cloak. In the second photo she has upgraded to a purple cloak with fur edging.