User:Jeppe/draft/guest kit guide
Introduction
The Vikings Society primarily re-enacts the period c.800-c.1100 in the British Isles. As such, the Society’s authenticity focuses on the ‘viking ages’ in Britain, and on evidence that is relevant for Britain. We acknowledge that other groups and societies use a broader evidence base for their own shows, so we have put together this guest guide to give an easy overview of what we find acceptable, and not acceptable at Viking Festival 2021. This is the kit guidelines for guest groups attending the Viking Festival 2021. Participants that are members of The Vikings must follow the full society kit guides relevant to the period of the event. The authenticity team can be contacted via authenticity{at}vikingsonline.org.uk
Historical setting
The beginning of the 10th Century saw a series of campaigns, with Wessex seeking to re-establish control of lands lost to Vikings in the previous century. The timeline for the show is 910 to 920, the years of heightened activity as Wessex/Mercia start to bring the Danelaw under their control. Many of the Vikings are landholders in Danelaw and most of those under the age of 40 were born there, some have English mothers and speak and dress much the same as the English. It is only a few years after the death of Alfred the Great’s nephew Aethelwold who was killed while leading an army of Vikings against the forces of his cousin King Edward.
Elegible kit
Based on the location and timeline of the event, kit from the following cultures are allowed. For those who are interested, links to the full society kit guides given:
Anglo-Saxon: Anglo-Saxon male guide (also cover Anglo-Dane)
Welsh/Brythonic
Anglo-Danish
Western Viking: Western Viking Male Guide, Western Viking Female guide
Non permissable kit
Kit from the following cultures is not permitted:
Norman
Byzantine
Frankish
Birka (Swedish),
Rus
Due to popularity in the reenactment world, we find it necessary to specifically mention the following items.
Kit not appropriate for the timeline | |
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Rus and Birka caftans | |
Lamellar armour | |
hammer backed axes | Small axes with a hammer, secondary blade or spike on the back are characteristic of the steppes of what is now Russia. There is no evidence for their use in Britain. |
Maille face aventails | Characteristic of 7th century Vendel period and Rus. |
‘Chimney-pot helmets’ | Characteristic Rus helmet, often with horse tail plume |
Kite shields | This is a later development not seen until the 11th century |
Coif | This is a later development not seen until the 11th century |
Non permissable items
The following list details items which are not evidenced for the period and geographical region the event covers (i.e. the British Isles c.920). Please note that this is not a comprehensive list (we may have forgotten something) so if in doubt please ask. The list is split into five groups; modern items, personal kit, wargear, LHE equipment and designs. These items may not be used
Modern items
Modern items considered entirely modern and anachronistic. | |
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Visible modern items | Modern items (e.g. glasses, watches, cigarettes etc) should not be used while in kit and during show hours. If you need a smoke/vape go to the modern camp site. |
Earrings or piercings | All earrings and visible piercings should be removed or covered as far as possible. |
Tattoos | Tattoos should be concealed as far as possible. |
Varnished nails, makeup and dyed hair. | Nail varnish and makeup should not be worn. Avoid dyeing hair prior to the event, otherwise dyed hair should be concealed. |
Modern footwear | Modern shoes should not be worn with authentic costume. |
Excessively bright colours (anything ‘day-glo’) | Anything that looks like a highlighter pen, or that could be described as “day-glo” or “lurid” is almost certainly impossible to achieve with authentic dyes, and should not be used. If in doubt, please contact the authenticity team for advice. |
Modern leather | Chrome-tanned leather, which typically has a shiny finish, and often in strong colours is wholly modern and may not be used. Leather should be veg-tanned. Black leather is specifically not allowed. No modern studs or metal work on any leather goods. No modern painted leather. |
Personal kit
Inauthentic personal kit | |
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Rough, unworked or ‘rustic’ antler | A large quantity of antler has been found, invariably smoothed down and usually decorated with crosshatching/ring and dot.
Antler should not be left unworked or ‘rustic’. The antler crown should not be left prominent at the end of the handle. |
Antler or horn tip toggles on any item | There is no evidence for these items, they are modern re-enactorisms. Shoe toggles should be made using a strip of leather rolled up and sewn. |
Tall boots (i.e. higher than the sole is long) | The majority of period footwear consists of low boots or ankle shoes. Taller boots are at most mid-calf height; but not higher than the sole length. |
Leather tunics and trousers | There is no evidence for leather garments from the period. A leather tunic may be worn hidden under maille to protect the fabric tunic. It should not be seen worn on its own, and if removing the maille in camp, also remove the leather tunic and hide it in a tent. |
Two-hanger ‘kidney’ pouches | There is no evidence for these items, they are modern re-enactorisms. |
Plaid and tartan | There is no evidence for combinations of wide checks and narrow lines which is characteristic of modern plaids. |
Animal teeth or antler tines as pendants Belt-worn holders for drinking horns |
There is no evidence for these items, they are modern re-enactorisms. |
Large/multiple necklaces worn by men | When found in graves, male necklaces usually consist of no more than 3 beads and a single pendant. |
Hats with wide fur trims | Wide fur trim (2”/50mm or greater) on hats is a much later fashion and generally Mongolian. |
All-metal ‘S’ knives | This is an adoption of an Iron Age razor by modern smiths as a simple knife to make but with no evidence of use in our period. |
“Troll Cross” pendant | Invented in the late 1990s by Kari Erland and not a period Viking pendant. |
One piece horn combs without bone stiffeners | These are modern items that would not be possible to make during the period. Horn combs should have bone side plates as stiffeners. |
Brooches as male neck closures | No apparent evidence for this in graves or manuscripts. Closures appear to be a combination of “bead & loop” or a tied/drawstring fastening. |
Combat equipment
Living history equipment
Inauthentic living history equipment | |
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Horn mugs | There is no evidence for these items, they are modern re-enactorisms. |
Horn bowls and large horn spoons | These are modern items that would not be possible to make during the period. Small horn spoons are also inauthentic but are allowed for people who have difficulty using wooden spoons. |
Bamboo/cane baskets | These are materials unavailable during the period. |
Baskets with bark stripped off | As baskets are easily made and disposable items, it is unlikely time would have been wasted to strip off the bark. |
Early Saxon ‘claw’ beakers | These are earlier than the period the event covers. |
‘Pavillion’ tents with vertical sides | Pavillion tents with straight sides, held up by side-posts around a wooden cartwheel and no central pole, are not found in the British Isles in our period. |
Stargazer or “cross” chairs | Earliest evidence for these appears to be 19th C African. |
Cast metal cooking ware | All metal cooking pots or cauldrons should be riveted sheet iron/steel. No Victorian cast copper, iron etc or with feet. |
Metal tent pegs | Period tents pegs are wooden not metal. |
Round-topped ‘pirate’ chests | A single possible find from Birka is the only evidence that these may have existed. Further evidence would be required to accept them for “general” use. |
Square chests made from blanket boxes | Chests should be constructed similar to the generic sea chest design. This should have sloping ends and sometimes sloping sides as well. |
Relief carved sea chests | There is no evidence for these items, they are modern re-enactorisms. |
Painted decoration on non-carved flat surfaces | Limited to no evidence for painted uncarved flat surfaces. Requires the Society LHE Thegn to give prior written approval to the design of any painting on a non-carved flat surface. |
Painted relief carved surfaces | This is not a specifically unacceptable item, but as above, is one that requires prior written approval from the Society LHE Thegn for anything beyond slight highlighting of the carving. |
Modern sharp axes | Sharp axes should not be obviously modern – for example they should not still have paint or varnish on, and all handles should be made of wood. Axes used in the LHE should follow one of the known common types. |
Trelleborg wheels | There is no evidence for these in Europe earlier than the 17th century. |
Rawhide and wood lanterns | These are late Medieval to modern in date, and there is no evidence of their use in the period. |
Designs and techniques
Inauthentic designs and techniques | |
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“Ramshorn” or “Running Dog” tablet braid pattern | This originates in 19th Turkey and the Balkans and was not a pattern used during the Viking period. |
“Viking Compass” design | There is no evidence for this design before the 17th Century and appears to have been adopted recently as a “Viking” symbol. |
Pyrography or similar burnt decoration | This is a more modern decorative technique and not present during the Early Medieval. Branding of individual letters or such to identify wooden utensils etc is acceptable, but not burnt decoration e.g. laser cut, pyrography etc. |
Social structure
Focus | Very low status Level 1 |
Lower status Level 2 |
Higher status Level 3 |
Very high status Level 4 |
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Description | Slavery was a normal part of early medieval life. Slaves could be captured or traded from abroad, but often came from the same country. In an age where crop failure and famine was not uncommon, if you couldn’t afford to feed yourself, it was better to commend yourself to someone else who was then duty-bound to look after you. The freedom to starve isn’t all that attractive… This class includes low-status dependents who were tied to their lord’s estate, with no property to feed themselves from. They exchanged their labour for his generosity. They could be skilled and trusted workers, but were “unfree”. | covers the majority of the population – Free men, tenant farmers, small holders, apprentices, regular craftsmen, local traders.
Freedmen (leysingir) remained dependent on their lord, often for a number of generations, receiving board, lodging and clothing in return for labour. Free men varied widely in wealth and status. Some had their own estates and were responsible for their own households, but were unable to sell or bequeath their land, i.e. effectively tenants of their lord. |
these are local Community leaders (or members of a leading local family). For raiding Vikings it is most likely the younger sons with no heritage prospects.
Tenth century England saw considerable social change, with the emergence of a class of modest landowners – the thegnly class (effectively ‘gentry’ or minor aristocracy), each holding five hides of land (roughly 600 acres). Also covers any retinue of the local leader, Master craftsmen and regional traders. |
This covers men of substance, who owned landed estates or long distance business and trading ventures. In England the spectrum of noble (eorlisc) men went from five-hide thegns through to the most powerful ealdormen. In Scandinavia this covers royal huscarls and the jarls. It also includes the warrior-retainers who followed these great lords as his companions and bodyguards. Since they ate at their lord’s table, accompanied him to court meetings and lived at his side, they would be dressed and equipped to the best of his ability, to reflect his importance and wealth. |
Combat | Non-combatant: Water carrier. If an enemy warrior approaches a non-combatant character, they should run away. |
Non-combatant: Slinger, Archer. If an enemy warrior approaches a non-combatant character, they should run away. |
Combatant | Combatant |
Weapons | N/A | Bow or sling is encouraged. | A round shield. Spear or hand axe is strongly encouraged. sword (with scabbard and sword belt). Long axes may be used, but is uncommon until the end of the century. A knife 6”-10” blade of Scandinavian design and vertical suspended may be used by Vikings. Broken back seaxes are distinctly Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Danish. | |
Fabric colours | Fabrics should ideally be un-dyed natural colours (browns and greys for wool), no whites. | Fabrics should ideally be un-dyed natural colours (browns and greys for wool), no whites. Other colours should be light, muted, ideally faded or washed out. | Fabrics may be in relatively rich colours, but reds and blues should be light or muted. | Stronger colours can be used, but must be achievable by vegetable-dyeing methods – anything which could be described as “day-glo” is unacceptable. |
Male kit guide
Focus | Requirements |
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Footwear | |
Footwear | Turnshoes, either with toggles (made from leather) or laces Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. Hobnails or other grips on their soles is allowed as a modern safety feature, and should never be presented to the public as authentic. |
Clothing | |
Leg-wear | Tight-fitting trousers optionally with Winingas. Baggy trousers are allowed for Vikings of higher status. They should be straight-legged, loose-fitting but not voluminous, and baggier from the knee upwards with a very wide crotch) must be worn in combination with winingas. |
Tunic | The tunic should reach nearly to the knee when worn with a belt. The neckline should be closed with ties or a simple loop and bead arrangement. |
Belt | belts should be plain leather, narrow and fitted with a buckle appropriate for the persona. It is encouraged to use leather no thicker than 2 mm, or 1 mm leather folded double and stitched. Stamped or embossed decoration on the leather is not permitted. Simple hand tooling may be used. |
Cloak | A rectangular cloak, Secured with a penannular brooch, a disc-brooch or cloak pin. The method of fastening should be appropriate for the culture and status portrayed. |
General | Fabric, colour and general state of clothing should be suitable to the status of the kit. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Very high status would most likely hand down worn clothes to people below them. |
Accessories | |
Jewellery | Belts, cloak pins, jewellery, cross or crucifix, Thor's hammer, disc brooches should all be in a material consistent with the status of the kit, and of design and decoration appropriate for the cultural group. |
Satchel | A satchel or bag of suitable design is very useful and encouraged. It is far preferred to an oversized belt pouch. |
eating utensils | A small eating knife up to about 4”-5” long, suspended vertically in a leather sheath. The handle should be wood, bone or worked antler (not rustic/natural antler). A wooden bowl, a wooden or pottery cup, and a wooden spoon, are strongly recommended. |
general | Items on the Belt, such as pouches or other accoutrements, are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. Personal accessories can include: a whetstone; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder). Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch or preferably a satchel. A number of pouches have been found from our period. They tend to be relatively small. Rather than having a large pouch, a satchel or bag is preferred. |
general | Tools appropriate to the occupation and livelihood of the character portrayed. Items are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and kit. Agricultural workers and craftsmen may have relevant tools.
Higher-status characters are (level 3) Local community leaders (or leading local family), their retinue, Master craftsmen, regional traders. Many of these are due military service and will have war gear (see below). Merchants should have examples of trade goods, means of payment and ideally an understanding of trade and financial transactions. |
War gear | |
Helmet | Anyone expecting to go on a battlefield, including non-combatants, MUST have a helmet. A concealed helmet underneath a hat or hood is strongly encouraged for non-combatants, and may be used by combatants. All combatants can use Conical helmets, while spectacle helmets are for Vikings only. High domed helmets and helmets with cheek-flaps are discouraged. |
Gloves | Gloves are mandatory safety equipment for combatants. They must be unobtrusive and not of obviously modern appearance at 3 metres / 10 feet, and with sufficient padding to offer reasonable protection. |
Arm guards | Any additional safety gear (such as arm guards or other protection), must either be hidden or unobtrusive in appearance. |
Weapons | weapons are in a reasonable state of repair and will pass safety checks to be used on the battlefield. Weapons are tools, and you life would depend on them being in good order. For people of status, the weapons are also status symbols and as such would have been properly looked after. |
Weapons | All weapons can be carried and stored in a safe manner, with scabbards, sheaths, covers etc, of design appropriate for the status, cultural group and date of the kit. While weapons used on the battlefield must be combat blunts, they should be presented as if they are in fact sharp. Arrows must be in a quiver. Sling stones must be in a bag or satchel. Swords must have a scabbard. short seax and langseax must have a sheath. hand axes should have a cover. |
Shield | A round shield. Ideally the decoration on the face of the shield uses paint of achievable colour and a design suitable for the culture and date. Shield should be in a reasonable state of repair and will pass safety checks to be used on the battlefield. |
Armour | While this is optional, any body armour must be appropriate for the status and date of the kit. style="vertical-align:top;"|Any armour would be well looked after, missing links would be replaced before larger holes developed.
A maille haubergeon (with elbow-length sleeves and mid-thigh length) is optional. |
Female kit guide
Focus | Requirements |
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Footwear | |
Footwear | Turnshoes, either with toggles (made from leather) or laces Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. Hobnails or other grips on their soles is allowed as a modern safety feature, and should never be presented to the public as authentic. |
Clothing | |
Leg-wear | Optional, to be worn under dresses for warmth: Tight-fitting trousers, Winingas, Knee length fabric socks. |
Underdress | Long underdress, reaching the ankles and to the wrists. This is usually made of linen or fine wool. Underdress should be closed at the neck either with ties, or a loop and bead. |
Overdress | A long overdress, reaching ankles and wrists is to be worn by all Christian characters, and any Pagan characters of lower status. This is usually made of wool, but can be linen. Overdress should be closed at the neck either with ties, a loop and bead or a small disc brooch. |
Hangeroc | A Hangeroc can be worn by higher status pagan characters. This is usually made of wool. It is fasted by loops (sewing one continuous strap from front to back is not acceptable) and must be held closed with tortoise (oval) brooches (usually bronze). A separate “apron” may be attached to it. |
Belt | Womens belts are optional, but when used they should be plain cloth or tablet braid. |
Headgear | Christians: A wimple or veil is mandatory. Pagans: A simple headdress or Linen York style cap is optional. |
Cloak | A rectangular cloak, Secured with a cloak pin, penannular, equal armed, trefoil or disc-brooch.. The method of fastening should be appropriate for the culture and status portrayed. |
General | Fabric, colour and general state of clothing should be suitable to the status of the kit. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Very high status would most likely hand down worn clothes to people below them. |
Accessories | |
Jewellery | Belts, cloak pins, jewellery, cross or crucifix, Thor's hammer, disc brooches should all be in a material consistent with the status of the kit, and of design and decoration appropriate for the cultural group. |
Satchel | A satchel or bag of suitable design is very useful and encouraged. It is far preferred to an oversized belt pouch. |
eating utensils | A small eating knife up to about 4”-5” long, suspended vertically in a leather sheath. The handle should be wood, bone or worked antler (not rustic/natural antler). A wooden bowl, a wooden or pottery cup, and a wooden spoon, are strongly recommended. |
general | Personal accessories can include: a toiletries set, keys, sewing kit; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder).
Accessories can hang from the belt or be kept in a drawstring pouch, and for larger items in a satchel. If a belt is not worn Items should be carried in a satchel. Items hanging off brooches is a Swedish style. Items on the Belt, such as pouches or other accoutrements, are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch or preferably a satchel. |
general | Tools appropriate to the occupation and livelihood of the character portrayed. Items are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and kit. Agricultural workers and craftswomen may have relevant tools. Cooking is a craft.
Higher-status characters are likely to do spinning, tablet weaving, embroidering, or looking after guests. Very high status: Only appropriate crafts are looking after guests, supervising many servants etc. They would not be cooking. |
War gear | |
Helmet | Anyone expecting to go on a battlefield, including non-combatants, MUST have a helmet. A concealed helmet underneath a wimple, veil or hood is to be used by non-combatants such as water carriers. |