Western Viking Male Guide

Kit guide

Focus	Assessment	Requirements for: 9th and 10th century Viking lower status (level 2)	Requirements for: 9th and 10th century Viking higher status (level 3-4)
Context
Context	What cultural group / type of kit is being assessed?	Viking
Context	What location does the character originate from	Iceland (10th C only) Norway (covers Iceland 9th C) Denmark
Context	What gender is the candidate portraying?	male
Context	What date is the kit portraying?	C.800-900 (9th C variant) C. 900-1020 (10th C variant)
Context	What social status is being portrayed?	Lower status covers the majority of the population – farm workers, tenants, artisans etc. Freedmen (leysingir) remained dependent on their lord, often for a number of generations, receiving board, lodging and clothing in return for labour. Free men (bondir, karls) varied widely in wealth and status. Some had their own estates and were responsible for their own households, but were unable to sell or bequeath their land, i.e. effectively tenants of their lord. There is a separate page for very low status	Higher status (level 3) these are local Community leaders (or members of a leading local family). For raiding Vikings it is most likely the younger sons with no heritage prospects. Level 3 also covers any retinue of the local leader, Master craftsmen and regional traders. For very high status (level 4) see notes at the end. This covers men of substance, who owned landed estates or long distance business and trading ventures. The spectrum went from ..... through to the most powerful Jarls. It also includes the warrior-retainers who followed these great lords as his companions and bodyguards. Since they ate at their lord’s table, accompanied him to court meetings and lived at his side, they would be dressed and equipped to the best of his ability, to reflect his importance and wealth.
Context	What is the occupation of the character being portrayed? Is the character typical or representative of those found in the early medieval world?
Footwear
Footwear	Candidate has shoes of suitable design.	Turnshoes, either with toggles (made from leather) or laces Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. Bare feet are an option for very low status.	Turnshoes, either with toggles or laces. Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. Optionally, boots may be worn (not higher than the length of the sole, and no more than 3 toggles).
Footwear	If candidate has hobnails or other grips in their shoes, they are aware that they are an inauthentic safety feature
Clothing
Clothing	Candidate has leg-wear of suitable design. Baggy trousers not an option for basic kit.	Tight-fitting trousers. Winingas are optional. 10th century variant: optional hose and braes. Baggy trousers not an option for lower status due to the cost of fabric.	Tight-fitting trousers. It is encouraged to use Winingas, these may have a decorative top band. Baggy trousers (straight-legged, loose-fitting but not voluminous, and baggier from the knee upwards with a very wide crotch) must be worn in combination with winingas. 10th century variant: optional hose and braes.
Clothing	Candidate has undertunic and overtunic of suitable design. for basic kit check, one tunic is sufficient.	undertunic and overtunic should reach to mid-thigh or nearly to the knee when worn with a belt. They may have short side-splits or gussets (contrasting-colour gussets are not allowed). Both tunics should be closed at the neck with ties or a simple loop and bead arrangement 9th century variant: Tunics should be shorter, reaching to mid-thigh when worn with a belt.	undertunic and overtunic should reach to mid-thigh or nearly to the knee when worn with a belt. They may have short side-splits or gussets (contrasting-colour gussets are not allowed). Both tunics should be fastened with ties, or a simple loop and bead arrangement hooks The overtunic may be replaced by a culture appropriate klappenrock. 9th century variant: Tunics should be shorter, reaching to mid-thigh when worn with a belt
clothing	Candidate have belt of suitable design	belts should be plain leather, narrow and fitted with a simple iron or copper alloy buckle. It is encouraged to use leather no thicker than 2 mm, or 1 mm leather folded double and stitched.	belt can be up to 1" wide. Buckles should be bronze, silver (silver imitation is acceptable) or decorated bone. A strap end should be fitted. It is encouraged to use leather no thicker than 2 mm, or 1 mm leather folded double and stitched. Stamped or embossed decoration on the leather is not permitted. Simple hand tooling may be used.
Clothing	Candidate has headgear of suitable design.	Optional: An untrimmed cloth hat of multi-panel construction, or a hood.	Optional: An untrimmed cloth hat of multi-panel construction, a pillbox hat, cap or a hood. A rus hat is not acceptable.
Clothing	Candidate has a cloak of suitable design. This is optional for basic kit, though encouraged.	A rectangular cloak, preferably a single layer, or double layer in a single fabric, though it may be lined in a different-coloured fabric. (Remember fabric is wealth so depends on status) Secured with a simple brooch or cloak pin.	A rectangular cloak, which may be lined in a different-coloured fabric, secured with a decorative penannular or disc-brooch. Very high status: Cloak should be lined and decorated. Can be semi-circular in shape (royalty only).
Clothing	Fabric, colour and general state of clothing is suitable to the status of the kit.	Fabrics should ideally be un-dyed natural colours (browns and greys for wool), other colours should be light, muted, ideally faded or washed out. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life.	Fabrics may be in relatively rich colours – though anything which could be described as “day-glo” is unacceptable. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Very high status would most likely hand down worn clothes to people below them.
Clothing	Clothing has decoration consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Decoration should be limited and is optional; tablet braid would probably have been removed and re-used when a garment was passed down. Decoration should be modest and simple, such as decorative hem stitches. This is not embroidery, but should still be fine stitches as there is no evidence for very large stitches made with coarse wool thread. We discourage the use of coarse wool braids as this is not evidenced by the finds. Braids should be tightly packed and suitably thin wool or linen being used (nothing more than 4mm wool being used,) It should almost be like fabric in how its woven.	Fine-quality tablet braid and brocade braid is encouraged. Very high status: ask for advice.
Clothing	Candidate is able to explain to the public how each item of their kit would have been made and worn. The candidate can explain the evidence behind any unusual or typical items. Candidates seeking an advanced pass will be expected to have a greater degree of knowledge than those seeking a basic pass.	While reviewing the candidate’s costume, the assessor will ask questions or discuss items with the candidate, to establish their level of knowledge and confidence. For a basic pass, the assessor may draw on their wider knowledge of the candidate's understanding and confidence.
Accessories
Misc	Candidate has jewellery in a material consistent with the status of the kit, and of design and decoration appropriate for the cultural group, location and date.	Belts should be plain leather, with a simple metal buckle. Strap-ends are generally associated with sword belts, and so are optional. Small disc brooches and cloak pins are encouraged. Optionally a simple Thor's hammer or pendant. For Christians, a cross or crucifix of simple design in wood, bone or metal. Before 950AD very few would be Christian. Multiple necklaces, many beads, animal teeth, antler tines etc are not permitted.	A plain leather belt and buckle with suitable decoration on buckle and buckle plate, strap ends on sword-belts. Decorated disc brooches, penannular brooches and cloak pins are encouraged. For pagans optionally a Thor's hammer or pendant. For Christians a decorative metal cross or crucifix is encouraged. Decorated bronze, silver or gold arm rings and finger rings are encouraged. Bronze is not an option for very high status Multiple necklaces, many beads, animal teeth, antler tines etc are not permitted. 10th century variant: outsized ‘thistle’ brooches made from silver are characteristically Hiberno-Norse, but also occur in Norway.
Misc	Candidate has a satchel or bag of suitable design.	Encouraged, very useful. Preferred to oversized belt pouch.
Misc	Items on the candidate's Belt, such as pouches or other accoutrements, are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Personal accessories can include: a whetstone; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder). Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch with a single suspension loop, or preferably a satchel.	A small pouch with replica coins and hacksilver, hung around the neck is encouraged. Personal accessories can include: a whetstone; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder); a comb. Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch with a single suspension loop, or preferably a satchel.
Misc	Candidate has eating utensils of suitable design. Eating utensils are encouraged but not required for a basic kit check – new members frequently rely on group kit as they acquire their own	A small eating knife up to about 4”-5” long, suspended vertically in a leather sheath. The handle should be wood, bone or worked antler (not rustic/natural antler). A wooden bowl or plate, a wooden or pottery cup, and a wooden spoon, are strongly recommended.
Misc	Candidate has items appropriate to the occupation and livelihood of the character they wish to portray; items are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and kit. This is optional for basic kit.	Agricultural workers and craftsmen may have relevant tools.	Higher-status characters are likely to be merchants or warriors, with war gear (see below). Merchants should have examples of trade goods, means of payment and ideally an understanding of trade and financial transactions.
War gear
war gear	Candidate has a helmet appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. Anyone expecting to go on a battlefield, including non-combatants, MUST have a helmet. Concealed helmets are encouraged for non-combatants.	Concealed helmets underneath a hat or hood are strongly encouraged. Conical helmets are acceptable	conical helmets, domed helmets (9th century only) and ‘Gjermundbu’ ‘spectacle’ helmets (to end of the 10th century only) may be worn. Please consult the Society document on timeline restrictions on kit.
war gear	Candidate has gloves which are not obtrusive or of obviously modern appearance at 3 metres / 10 feet, and with sufficient padding to offer reasonable protection.	Candidate is aware that gloves are a mandatory safety feature for combatants, but not strictly authentic.
war gear	If the candidate has any additional safety gear (such as armguards or other protection), they are either not visible or unobtrusive in appearance.	The candidate must be aware that such items are inauthentic safety features.
war gear	Candidate has a primary weapon appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	bow or sling is encouraged.	Spear or hand axe is strongly encouraged. sword (with scabbard and sword belt). 10th century variant: long axes may be used in the tenth century, but is uncommon until the end of the century. Please consult the Society document on timeline restrictions on kit.
war gear	Candidate has one or more secondary weapons appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Remember low status combatants are not warriors, they should turn and run away if confronted by a warrior. A knife 6”-10” blade of Scandinavian design and vertical suspended is encouraged. DON’T MIX UP BLUNTS AND SHARPS! Broken back seaxes should not be used as these are distinctly Anglo-Saxon and to some degree Anglo-Danish. A hand axe is acceptable.	hand axe or Sword (with scabbard). A knife 6”-10” blade of Scandinavian design and vertical suspended may be used. Broken back seaxes should not be used as these are distinctly Anglo-Saxon. DON’T MIX UP BLUNTS AND SHARPS!
war gear	The candidate's weapons are in a reasonable state of repair and will pass safety checks to be used on the battlefield.	weapons are tools, and you life would depend on them being in good order. For people of status, the weapons are also status symbols and as such would have been properly looked after.
war gear	All of the candidate's weapons can be carried and stored in a safe manner, with scabbards, sheaths, covers etc, of design appropriate for the status, cultural group and date of the kit. While weapons used on the battlefield must be combat blunts, the candidate should present them as if they are in fact sharp.	Knife must have a sheath. Arrows must be in a quiver. Sling stones must be in a bag or satchel.	Swords must have a scabbard. hand axes should have a cover. Knives must have a sheath. Arrows and bolts must be in a quiver.
war gear	Candidate has a shield of design appropriate for the cultural group and date.	Option not available.	A round shield. The decoration on the face of the shield uses paint of achievable colour and a design suitable for the culture and date. The shield is in a reasonable state of repair and will pass safety checks to be used on the battlefield.
war gear	Candidate has body armour appropriate for the status and date of the kit.	Option not available.	A maille haubergeon (with elbow-length sleeves and mid-thigh length). 9th century variant: a maille byrnie (with short sleeves, no more than waist length) may be worn. Note that lamellar armour is not permitted. Any armour would be well looked after, missing links would be replaced before larger holes developed. Maille presented should not have any visible holes.

Examples and Variations

Lower Status

A craftsman in plain undyed fabric, with tablet braid neckline. He carries a knife and the belt has a strap end, so he has gathered some wealth. His work is being supervised by a wealthy warrior with a sword and silver bracelet.
A household servant just finished chopping wood. He is wearing plain linen clothes and a small eating knife.
A tenant farmer, or local craftsman.
another farmer or shepherd, ready to defend the livestock from predators.

Higher status

A landed farmer (bondi) judging from the tone of the colours. These are not from the strongest dye baths, but closer to exhausting the bath. The fact the clothes are dyed means he must have access to some means.
A well off man who does not have to work the land, but have the means to afford a sword and the time to train how to use it. Rich red linen trousers with dark blue leg wraps and high boots – toggles on the outside, so perhaps they are riding boots. Sword and baldric richly decorated, and he wears both armrings and bracelets. The woollen tunic is brown walnut dyed, with a tailored fit, and neck collar and closing in weld yellow. His cloak is un-dyed but decorated with embroidery.
A warrior with sword and spear. Rich yellow and blue tunics, both with tablet braid, and a deep red cloak. He also possess a helmet.
A freeman with dark red tunic, sword and spear. He has a belt pouch for his fire steel and a money pouch round his neck. He is also carrying a rather large knife, note that this is vertically suspended. He has a maille shirt and spectacle helmet, and is a trained archer.
A trader from Hedeby perhaps. Boots and dark blue leg wraps, baggy trousers in a green striped fabric. Decorated sword and belts with decorative fittings. Even the utility knife is decorated. He is wearing a red/purple decorative cloak – it is too small to be of much use other than showing off. The cloak is held with a highly decorated bronze penannular brooch, and he is also wearing a copper alloy bracelet.

Very high status

The higher-status kit guidelines are a good starting point for the extremely wealthy and powerful – the mighty jarls and Scandinavia’s increasingly powerful kings. All kit should be made to the highest standard and be well decorated. This may feature gold and silver thread, gold or silver wire inlaid into metalwork, gold and silver jewellery. Any tablet braid should be high quality and can utilise silver/gold threads, silk etc. Thread used for braid should be very fine – no “chunky” wools. The costliest materials and colours may be used, including very deep, rich shades of crimson, purple and bleached white. Silk fabric is an option – though it should be smooth silk (midweight) or fine gossamer silk (but not ‘raw’/‘slubbed’ silk or shimmering two-colour ‘shot’ silk/dupion). All kit must be in good condition – anything damaged or dirty would be passed to a minion to clean/repair, or else given away.

Here we have a jarl's huscarl with bright blue and red overtunic, a yellow undertunic with tablet braid trim and green trousers. He is well equipped with maille shirt and helmet - it could be his own, or belong to the jarl. He has a spear and shield, a Dane axe and highly decorated sword with wire wrapped hilt. He is wearing finger rings and a silver bracelets.
Here we have a Viking Jarl, wearing a deep blue tunic with brocaded silk trim. His purple (red warp, blue weft) cloak is lined with a light purple and has a fur edge. He is wearing dark blue leg wraps and boots. His belt has a silver buckle and strap end, and his sword baldric has metal fittings, and the sword has a wire wrapped hilt. He is also wearing silver and gold arm rings and a silver chain.