Brythonic male guide
Kit guide
| Focus | Assessment | Requirements for: 9th to 11th century Brythonic lower status (level 2) |
Requirements for: 9th to 11th century Brythonic higher status (level 3-4) |
|---|---|---|---|
Context | |||
| Context| | What cultural group / type of kit is being assessed?| | Brythonic | |
| Context | What gender is the candidate portraying? | male | |
| Context | What date is the kit portraying? | C.800-900 (9th C variant) C. 900-1020 (10th C variant) C. 1020-1066 (11th C variant) | |
| Context | What social status is being portrayed? | Lower status covers the majority of the population – farm workers, tenants, artisans etc. Freedmen (bonnedig) remained dependent on their lord, often for a number of generations, receiving board, lodging and clothing in return for labour. Free men varied widely in wealth and status. Some had their own estates and were responsible for their own households, but were unable to sell or bequeath their land, i.e. effectively tenants of their lord. There is a separate page for very low status |
Higher status (level 3) While the Tenth century saw a consolidation of power and wealth for the Saxon kingdoms, it remains a more chaotic and poorer understood picture in the Brythonic regions.
The Welsh principalities could undergo significant shifts in power and size even within a single generation, while other regions like Strath Clyde and Cornwall would find themselves under increasing pressure if not outright domination by Saxon kings. Still, the elites of these societies remained the warrior retainers of the lords and chieftains, known as the Teylu (Tay-Lee). They formed the heart of upper class Briton society. The church also continued to hold significant power and influence with both Bishops and Abbots able to live ostentatiously by the standards of the day.
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| Context | What is the occupation of the character being portrayed? Is the character typical or representative of those found in the early medieval world? | ||
Footwear | |||
| Footwear | Candidate has shoes of suitable design. | Turnshoes, either with toggles (made from leather) or laces Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. ‘Irish bog’ shoes may also be used with appropriate socks. | Turnshoes, either with toggles or laces. Socks are either naalbinded or of unobtrusive modern design. |
| Footwear | If candidate has hobnails or other grips in their shoes, they are aware that they are an inauthentic safety feature | ||
Clothing | |||
| Clothing | Candidate has leg-wear of suitable design. | Tight-fitting trousers with Winingas OR Lavrocs - Three quarter length trousers which can be tight or loose but should not be ‘baggy’ in the Rus sense. OR |
Tight-fitting trousers with Winingas. Winingas may have a decorative top band. OR |
| Clothing | Candidate has undertunic and overtunic of suitable design.
for basic kit check, one tunic is sufficient. |
undertunic and overtunic should reach nearly to the knee when worn with a belt.
Or should be below the knee if worn without trousers. In which case movement should not be impeded. The neckline should be closed with ties, a simple loop and bead arrangement, or a simple small penannular (ex Trewhiddle Hoard) |
undertunic and overtunic should reach nearly to the knee when worn with a belt. The neckline should be closed with ties, a simple loop and bead arrangement, or a simple small penannular.
A longer tunic may be used by Ecclesiastical characters, reaching to the ankle and richly decorated. 11th century variant: Tunics start to be longer for the high status and can be front and back split to allow the wearer to ride (level 4) |
| clothing | Candidate have belt of suitable design | belts should be plain leather, narrow and fitted with a simple bone, iron or copper alloy buckle. It is encouraged to use leather no thicker than 2 mm, or 1 mm leather folded double and stitched. Strap-ends are generally associated with sword belts, and so should be avoided. Stamped or embossed decoration on the leather is not permitted. | belt can be up to 1" wide. Buckles should be bronze, silver (silver imitation is acceptable) or decorated bone. A strap end should be fitted. It is encouraged to use leather no thicker than 2 mm, or 1 mm leather folded double and stitched. Stamped or embossed decoration on the leather is not permitted. Simple hand tooling may be used. |
| Clothing | Candidate has headgear of suitable design. | Optional:a hood. A hat of the ‘Pillbox’ style. This is popular in Romano-British contexts but remains evidenced in other areas of the Early Medieval world (i.e Hedeby) | |
| Clothing | Candidate has a cloak of suitable design. This is optional for basic kit, though encouraged. | A rectangular cloak, preferably a single layer, or double layer in a single fabric, though it may be lined in a different-coloured fabric. (Remember fabric is wealth so depends on status) Secured with a simple brooch or cloak pin. Fringing is encouraged, either the unwoven ends of fabric gathered up and tied off or else a contrasting fringe in another colour. Alternatively a coat (‘Irish Sea Coat’ , Is-Jerkynn) made of wool and lined with another material. Either sleeveless or short sleeved. May also be fringed. |
A rectangular cloak, between the waist and knee in length, which may be lined in a different-coloured fabric, secured with a penannular brooch, a decorative disc-brooch or cloak pin. Fringing may again be present but is now mostly likely a contrasting colour to highlight wealth. |
| Clothing | Fabric, colour and general state of clothing is suitable to the status of the kit. | Fabrics should ideally be un-dyed natural colours (browns and greys for wool), other colours should be light, muted, ideally faded or washed out. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Basic checks and stripes may be encouraged, however they should not reflect modern ‘plaids’. |
Fabrics may be in relatively rich colours – though anything which could be described as “day-glo” is unacceptable. All edges are properly finished, with no visible machine stitching. Tear and wear must be repaired or patched to prolong its life. Very high status would most likely hand down worn clothes to people below them. Basic checks and stripes may be encouraged, however they should not reflect modern ‘plaids’. |
| Clothing | Clothing has decoration consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. | Decoration should be limited and is optional; Decoration should be modest and simple, such as decorative hem stitches. This is not embroidery, but should still be fine stitches as there is no evidence for very large stitches made with coarse wool thread. We discourage the use of tablet braid on basic kit to keep it as generic as possible. | The status should mainly be shown in the fabric it self. Decoration should be modest and simple, such as decorative hem stitches. This is not embroidery, but should still be fine stitches as there is no evidence for very large stitches made with coarse wool thread. We discourage the use of tablet braid and embroidery on basic kit to keep it as generic as possible. The very wealthy may have fine finger braids and high-quality embroidery (reference the Llangorse Textile) in an appropriate style Inter-lacing vines are found across the early medieval world and across Brythonic society. |
| Clothing | Candidate is able to explain to the public how each item of their kit would have been made and worn. The candidate can explain the evidence behind any unusual or typical items. Candidates seeking an advanced pass will be expected to have a greater degree of knowledge than those seeking a basic pass. | While reviewing the candidate’s costume, the assessor will ask questions or discuss items with the candidate, to establish their level of knowledge and confidence.
For a basic pass, the assessor may draw on their wider knowledge of the candidate's understanding and confidence. | |
Accessories | |||
| Misc | Candidate has jewellery in a material consistent with the status of the kit, and of design and decoration appropriate for the cultural group, location and date. | Belts should be plain leather, with a simple metal or bone buckle. Strap-ends are generally associated with sword belts, and should be avoided.
Simple penannular brooches and cloak pins can be used. Optionally a cross or crucifix of simple design in wood, bone or metal. Thors Hammers are not acceptable for a Brythonic impression as Christianity had been in place longer here then with the Saxons. |
A plain leather belt and buckle with suitable decoration on buckle and buckle plate, strap ends on sword-belts.
Decorated penannular brooches, disc brooches and cloak pins can be used. Thors Hammers are not acceptable for a Brythonic impression as Christianity had been in place longer here then with the Saxons. |
| Misc | Candidate has a satchel or bag of suitable design. | Encouraged, very useful. Preferred to oversized belt pouch. | |
| Misc | Items on the candidate's Belt, such as pouches or other accoutrements, are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. | Personal accessories can include: a whetstone; flint and steel for lighting fires (with tinder). Modern valuables should be kept in a draw-string pouch or preferably a satchel. | |
| Misc | Candidate has eating utensils of suitable design. Eating utensils are encouraged but not required for a basic kit check – new members frequently rely on group kit as they acquire their own | A small eating knife up to about 4”-5” long, suspended vertically in a leather sheath. The handle should be wood, bone or worked antler (not rustic/natural antler). A wooden bowl, a wooden or pottery cup, and a wooden spoon, are strongly recommended. | |
| Misc | Candidate has items appropriate to the occupation and livelihood of the character they wish to portray; items are consistent with the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and kit. This is optional for basic kit. | Agricultural workers and craftsmen may have relevant tools. | Higher-status characters are (level 3) Local community leaders (or leading local family), their retinue, Master craftsmen, regional traders. Very high status (level 4) Nobility, their retinue, long distance traders, royal huscarls. Many of these are due military service and will have war gear (see below). Merchants should have examples of trade goods, means of payment and ideally an understanding of trade and financial transactions. |
War gear | |||
| war gear | Candidate has a helmet appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. Anyone expecting to go on a battlefield, including non-combatants, MUST have a helmet. Concealed helmets are encouraged for non-combatants. | Concealed helmets underneath a hat or hood are strongly encouraged. Conical helmets are acceptable | conical helmets are preferred. 9th Century variant: domed helmets may be worn. Please consult the Society document on timeline restrictions on kit. 9th Century variant: domed helmets may be worn. Please consult the Society document on timeline restrictions on kit. Cheek plates on early helmets may be more likely on Brythonic kit reflecting a harkening back to previous Roman styles. However the material evidence is extremely scant. |
| war gear | Candidate has gloves which are not obtrusive or of obviously modern appearance at 3 metres / 10 feet, and with sufficient padding to offer reasonable protection. | Candidate is aware that gloves are a mandatory safety feature for combatants, but not strictly authentic. | |
| war gear | If the candidate has any additional safety gear (such as armguards or other protection), they are either not visible or unobtrusive in appearance. | The candidate must be aware that such items are inauthentic safety features. Armguards or other additional protection are not visible or can be worn unobtrusively. | |
| war gear | Candidate has a primary weapon appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. | Optionally a bow or sling. Spears and Javelins highly encouraged. | Spear, sword (with scabbard worn in a baldric over the shoulder). Bows or Javelins may be carried (also used by skirmish troops). Spears and Javelins are highly encouraged. |
| war gear | Candidate has one or more secondary weapons appropriate to the status of the kit, and of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. | For a basic kit, this is not an option. Remember low status combatants are not warriors, they should turn and run away if confronted by a warrior.
It seems very likely even a low status combatant might have both Javelins and a axe. In the laws of Hywel Dda it’s expected that a Bonnedig will turn up with an axe to aid in the work of setting up the camp, for example. |
Sword (with scabbard worn in a baldric over the shoulder) Warriors should still present with a spear, the spear is by far the most common weapon present in Welsh poetry of this age. A war-knife of some kind should be present. This may follow the Saxon/Viking style of a Seax or be an appropriate alternative (longer symmetrical knife for example) hand axes are discouraged. |
| war gear | The candidate's weapons are in a reasonable state of repair and will pass safety checks to be used on the battlefield. | weapons are tools, and you life would depend on them being in good order. For people of status, the weapons are also status symbols and as such would have been properly looked after. | |
| war gear | All of the candidate's weapons can be carried and stored in a safe manner, with scabbards, sheaths, covers etc, of design appropriate for the status, cultural group and date of the kit.
While weapons used on the battlefield must be combat blunts, the candidate should present them as if they are in fact sharp. |
Arrows must be in a quiver. Sling stones must be in a bag or satchel. Javelins may be carried in hand as long as the total number can be held in the shield hand with one ready to throw. hand axes should have a cover. | Swords must have a scabbard. short seax and langseax must have a sheath. Arrows must be in a quiver. hand axes should have a cover. |
| war gear | Candidate has a shield of design appropriate for the cultural group and date. | Candidate may have a buckler, as evidenced on Irish and limited Welsh sources. | A round shield. Upper class warriors may also use the buckler, horse mounted warriors with bucklers are present on Welsh stone crosses of the period (Margam). |
| war gear | Candidate has body armour appropriate for the status and date of the kit. | Option not available | Any armour would be well looked after, missing links would be replaced before larger holes developed.
Maille presented should not have any visible holes. |
Examples and Variations
Lower Status
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Higher status
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Very high status
The higher-status kit guidelines are a good starting point for the extremely wealthy and powerful. All kit should be made to the highest standard and be well decorated. This may feature gold and silver thread, gold or silver wire inlaid into metalwork, gold and silver jewellery. Any decoration should be high quality and can utilise silver/gold threads, silk etc. Thread used for braid and embroidery should be very fine – no “chunky” wools. The costliest materials and colours may be used, including very deep, rich shades of crimson, purple and bleached white. Silk fabric is an option – though it should be smooth silk (midweight) or fine gossamer silk (but not ‘raw’/‘slubbed’ silk or shimmering two-colour ‘shot’ silk/dupion). All kit must be in good condition – anything damaged or dirty would be passed to a minion to clean/repair, or else given away.
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